Posts tonen met het label dark travel. Alle posts tonen
Posts tonen met het label dark travel. Alle posts tonen

donderdag 22 maart 2012

Dark travel: Picardy (northern France) – Pierrefonds castle

Pierrefonds castle in the forest of Compiègne made a big impression on me. It is the perfect nineteenth-century romantic impression of a medieval castle. Not much authenticity to be found here, but if you're looking for a gothic atmosphere, this is certainly the place to be!
Château de Pierrefonds’ history dates back to the twelfth century, when a fortification is known to have stood on the same hilltop. In the fourteenth century a different building was constructed, but in 1617 it was attacked and largely destroyed.In the nineteenth century, when the architectural history of the Middle Ages was rediscovered, the castle ruins were a popular subject for romantic paintings.  

'Vue du château de Pierrefonds en ruine' - Paul Huet, 19th century
Old photograph of Pierrefonds ruins

   


Since 1848, the castle is a historical monument. Even so, emperor Napoleon III decided he wanted to restore the building. He hired architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, who is famous for restoring medieval buildings during the Gothic Revival period. He mainly worked on churches that were damaged during the French Revolution. The Notre-Dame in Paris, Saint-Chapelle and the citadel of Carcassonne are some of his best known restoration projects. 
Eugène Viollet-le-Duc:
Some of the projects Viollet-le-Duc supervized have been heavily criticized, because they divert significantly from the actual historical situation. He attempted to create ´perfect´ historical buildings that matched his ideas of the ideal medieval style. Often he added architectural decorations for which there was no evidence that they actually existed. Nowadays critics think his reconstructions are too much based on fantasy. But his methods cannot be compared to the ones we are using now and instead should be seen in the light of the nineteenth century and the gothic romantic image that was popular at the time. Historically accurate or not, I immensely enjoyed walking around the reconstructed castle, admiring the excellent stone carvings of fantasy figures.
I later learned that Pierrefonds has been used as the shooting location for the BBC series ´Merlin´. My boyfriend was thrilled when he suddenly recognized the castle when watching Merlin, because he really likes the series. If only he had known beforehand! 











 A surprise awaited us in the basement. Here numerous plaster casts were placed to form an exhibition on funeral sculptures. The room was very dark, with mysterious lights moving over the statues. Voices could be heard that seemed to come from the statues itself and that told the story of their lives. A wonderfully creepy place!: 

Pierrefonds castle in BBC's Merlin:

dinsdag 20 maart 2012

Dark Travel: Picardy (northern France)

I always love to read Amy's (http://ultimategothguide.blogspot.com/) accounts of her travels and day-trips and they inspired me to write about my own journeys as well. The last time I travelled outside of Europe was exactly a year ago, when I went to Morocco with my boyfriend. Since then I’ve only been to places in Europe though and this probably won’t change for a while, because we have very little money to spend. So my travel topics will mainly concern European countries.
Wherever I travel, I always seek out places that have interesting historical stories to tell. Being an archaeologist and a cultural heritage expert, I especially like to visit excavation sites and monumental buildings. But I also tend to look for places with a ‘dark’, mysterious atmosphere. Usually these traits are not difficult to find all in one spot. Since this blog is mainly about ‘dark things’, I will concentrate on those places that could be of interest to likeminded people.
Last summer we went to northern France, to a region called Picardy. This area is particularly known for the origin of the gothic building style and therefore one can visit plenty of beautiful cathedrals and cathedral ruins. There are many charming cities with a rich cultural history, such as Amiens and Laon. But even in the smallest villages there are breathtakingly beautiful remains of castles and abbeys.
Since most tourists travel further south towards the warmer provinces, this area of northern France is not overly crowded with foreigners during summertime. This is certainly a good thing if one wants to engage with the locals and enjoy nature and places of cultural interest without having to stand in line first. Finding a local goth club can be a lot harder in this area though. We certainly didn't come across anything like it, so keep that in mind if that's what you're looking for! 
Since we visited many places, I will write several posts on Picardy. This one is just a general impression of the region. 

The village of Berny-Rivière, where our camping place was:


More impressions of Picardy: